Jang, E., Park, S., Lee, J., & Hong, S-K. (2019). Beautiful and masculine: male make-up YouTubers and heteronormativity in South Korea. Journal of Popular Culture, 52(3), 678-702. DOI: 10.1111/jpcu.12803
This article observes the emergence of new male beauty practices in South Korea through YouTube channels(LeoJ Makeup, Kimkisoo, QYOUNG, HOONION, HWAN’E) on male makeup, and analyzes how traditional and new masculinity are negotiated, as well as their effects on gender relationships.
If you want to know how Korean men can be beautiful AND masculine, juggling between Korean hegemonic discourse on masculinity and newly emerging grooming practices, please check out this article at here.
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p. 681
In the Chosŏn dynasty—a Korean kingdom that lasted from 1392 to 1897—in which Confucian values pervaded in every realm of life, men valued a neat and tidy look. Susin (修身), which means “cultivating oneself or one’s body,” had been considered the most fundamental principle of self-discipline in everyday life. As a way of susin, “having a clean-cut look” (Yongmo Tanchŏng, 容貌端正) and “being in an appropriate dress” (Ui-kwan Chŏng-che, 衣冠整齊) were emphasized among noblemen and regarded as a preferred state of appearance for public life. As such, throughout Korean history, men took care of their appearance. However, it was mostly in pursuit of certain spiritual or moral values, rather than a desire to have goodlooking appearances. As men’s grooming enhanced noble masculine values, it was not in conflict with hegemonic masculinity and could be regarded as legitimate practice.
p. 690-692
Finally, the artistic quality of male makeup prevents men from being objectified under the female gaze. While most female YouTubers show daily makeup that female viewers can easily follow, male YouTubers often try more avant-garde and artistic makeup applications. […] this professional and artistic display emphasizes their makeup performance, which leads to a narcissistic attitude. For example, Qyoung is always confident in his makeup and exhibits his looks and lifestyle not only on YouTube but also on Instagram and his personal blog. As male makeup is not as common as female makeup, its purpose is not directly related to attracting females but rather with self-satisfaction. While the ideology of female beauty often forces women to put on makeup as part of their social lives and heterosexual relationships, men are free from this ideology, and male makeup can be considered something done of their own free will. Thus, male beauty practices become a means to boost men’s narcissism instead of a means of being objectified under the female gaze.
p. 696
Male beauty YouTube channels are becoming platforms where men can frankly discuss the beauty practices of men, and they are constructing an alternative sociality that deviates from the traditional masculine and macho homosociality. In particular, these YouTube channels have enabled men to speak about a novel subject—makeup techniques and cosmetics—and, thus, they expand the field of subject matters that can be communicated between men.
SOJEONG PARK 